The Contested History of the Reuben Sandwich: A Deli Icon's Origins
- TheButterDish
- Nov 19
- 3 min read
The Reuben sandwich, with its layers of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing grilled between slices of rye bread, is a beloved staple of American delis. Known for its hearty, tangy flavors and melty texture, this sandwich has sparked debates over its true birthplace. Was it born in the bustling streets of New York City or the poker rooms of Omaha, Nebraska? In this article, we'll explore the dueling origin stories, key figures involved, and how the Reuben evolved into the classic we know today.
A classic Reuben sandwich halved to show layers of corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing on grilled rye bread.
The New York Claim: A Star-Studded Creation in 1914
One prominent origin story traces the Reuben back to New York City's Reuben's Restaurant and Deli, a famous establishment founded by Arnold Reuben in 1914. According to this account, the sandwich was invented that same year when actress Annette Seelos, a leading lady in Charlie Chaplin's films, visited the deli late one evening and requested a substantial sandwich. Reuben himself reportedly created a towering concoction of Virginia ham, roast turkey, Swiss cheese, coleslaw, and Russian dressing on rye bread—though this early version differed from the modern corned beef iteration.
Over time, variations emerged. By the 1920s and 1930s, the sandwich at Reuben's evolved, with some accounts crediting a cook like William Hamerly in 1927 or 1928 for swapping in corned beef and sauerkraut. The deli's 24-hour operation and celebrity clientele helped popularize it, cementing New York's role in the sandwich's early history. This narrative positions the Reuben as a product of the vibrant Jewish deli scene in early 20th-century Manhattan.
A mouthwatering Reuben with melted cheese oozing out, served with Thousand Island dressing for dipping.
The Omaha Claim: Poker Nights and Hotel Innovation in the 1920s
On the other side of the debate is Omaha, Nebraska, where the Reuben is said to have originated during late-night poker games at the Blackstone Hotel around 1925. Reuben Kulakofsky, a Lithuanian-born Jewish grocer (sometimes spelled Reubin Kay), allegedly requested a unique sandwich from the hotel's chef, Bernard Schimmel, to satisfy the group's hunger. Schimmel layered corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing on rye bread, grilling it to perfection.
This version gained traction when it was added to the Blackstone's menu as the "Reuben Sandwich" and won a national recipe contest in 1956, sponsored by the National Restaurant Association. Descendants of Kulakofsky and Schimmel, including Elizabeth Weil (Schimmel's granddaughter), have championed this story, emphasizing its Midwestern roots. Omaha proudly claims the invention, even celebrating it as a local culinary landmark.
The debate persists because both stories involve a "Reuben" figure and similar ingredients, but timelines and details clash. Food historians note that the New York version may have started with different meats, evolving later, while Omaha's claim aligns more closely with the standard recipe.
Evolution and Modern Variations
Regardless of its birthplace, the Reuben sandwich spread across America in the mid-20th century, becoming a deli favorite by the 1950s. Its popularity surged with the rise of Jewish-American cuisine, blending Eastern European influences like sauerkraut and rye bread with American twists. Today, variations abound: the Rachel swaps corned beef for pastrami or turkey and coleslaw for sauerkraut; vegetarian versions use tempeh or mushrooms; and regional takes might include Thousand Island dressing instead of Russian.
The sandwich's enduring appeal lies in its balance of flavors—salty, sour, creamy, and crunchy—all grilled to gooey perfection. It's a fixture on menus from coast to coast, often paired with pickles and chips.
A close-up of a grilled Reuben sandwich, highlighting the crispy rye bread and juicy fillings.
Conclusion
The history of the Reuben sandwich is as layered as the dish itself, with passionate advocates for both New York and Omaha origins. Whether it emerged from a glamorous deli request in 1914 or a casual poker game in 1925, the Reuben has become an iconic symbol of American comfort food. Next time you bite into one, savor not just the taste, but the rich, debated legacy behind it. If the walls of old delis could talk, they might finally settle the score—but until then, we'll enjoy the mystery on rye.
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